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“Don’t think. Thinking is the enemy of creativity. It’s self-conscious and anything self-conscious is lousy. You can’t try to do things. You simply must do things. ” –Ray Bradbury
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Last Saturday I spent the day at our local woodworking emporium demonstrating the KM-1 Kerfmaker on their Saw Stop table saw. Unfortunately, the attendance was dismal.
And I loved it.
No, this is not a case of schadenfreude, it was six hours of play time. Here’s what happened…
It was prearranged that the store would provide some sample stock to demo the KM-1 and when I arrived there were a hundred or so 3/8″ square sticks about 3″ long. The idea was to cut a quick and mindlessly perfect cross-lap and give away the samples.
Like bees to flowers, woodworkers are attracted to the sound of power tools. So I took it upon myself to be as noisy as clover in a tornado by endlessly cutting cross-lap after cross-lap and assembling the pieces into what can best be described as a meandering three-dimensional maze. After about 10 minutes, I was in “the zone”–the same zone you were once in when you tired of the toy and played with the box. I stayed in this zone for about four hours.
Since there were no bees this day, I had an incredibly pleasurable, guilt free experience. On my way home, it occurred to me that I would have NEVER made what I made unless I was trapped with nothing to do. And from this came the honey;
“I don’t know what it is you are making but it is cool looking!”
“Thanks. Did you notice the joints are all perfect?”
“Not yet, but that thing is cool looking.”
So when I stumbled across the Ray Bradbury quote above, an uncontrollable urge to share came upon me.
Think what can happen if you can be in this “play” state for two solid weeks! This is what my annual work retreat is like. Which, by the way, is coming up in January–yippee! Picasso managed to be this way his entire life…
Isn’t it ironic that when we have nothing to do there is not enough time?
We haven’t introduced any new profiles for the HP6v2 in over eighteen months and in 2011 we will add eight to the family. That said, and without disclosing what cool profiles are on the docket (yes, one is a cyma reversa) let me know if you have a burning need.
Also, we are working with Gerstner on a building a cool case for this plane and all the accessories. One question to HP6v2 owners; do you see a need in said case to keep the original HP6v2 boxes within the case? This effects drawers sizes primarily. Your feedback would be helpful.
Here’s hoping for nothing to do because these days are long.
–John
Great post, John. I get most of my good ideas in the shower, when falling asleep, or staring out the window. The key is to make time to let your brain turn off. Unfortunately I don’t have the time to do that very much any more.
Did you take pictures of your creation? I’d love to see it. I recall telling you about something similar when we were at the WIA – here’s the link:
http://www.zeitraum-moebel.de/eng/produkt.php?Produkt=STRUKTUR&Seite=1
– Peter
I have a general suggestion for the profiles. I have experienced an issue with the radius profiles; I expect that the same thing occurs with others:
When you’re beginning cutting a profile, there isn’t much contact between the plane’s sole and the workpiece, as seen here:
http://www.dendroica.com/Scratch/HP6v2radius1.png
What can happen is that the plane can rock to the side, causing the sharp corner of the sole to score the workpiece:
http://www.dendroica.com/Scratch/HP6v2radius2.png
I think the problem would be alleviated by relieving the sole in the vicinity of that sharp corner:
http://www.dendroica.com/Scratch/HP6v2radius3.png
-Steve
@Peter; Thanks for sharing that site-beautiful. And a great illustration of what one can do with a bunch of similar parts…and a slam dunk for the KM-1 to boot (those sticks are Squiggle Wood with the cuts too far apart…)
I gave away my creation but kept the ideas.
@Steve; I confess to never considering the issue you raised. Moving forward, we will address this, as can you with a couple of strokes with a file. Thank you for sharing those images, they have not fallen on deaf eyes.
–John
I’ve been planning on building a “Gerstner Style” chest for a long time to store all those HP6 parts. I never worked out the details in my head. I would be very interested in buying one.
John,
I think the tool box would not need room for the original boxes, but just the soles and irons. I think that you’d end up with a more compact and easier system of managing everything. Plus, who wants to open a toolbox to open a box anyways?
By the way, sign me up because the Gerstner idea sounds like a toolbox full of awesome.
On a side note, how are the JMP’s coming along?
Dave
@Dave S.-
The upgrade kits started to ship today. The JMP’s will begin to go out next week and will take about a week to get them all out. Good to here from you…still chasing bad guys?
-John
John,
I like the idea of the Gerstner tool chest. As for boxes or just the soles/irons, how about a compromise? Design for the foam inserts without the cardboard boxes; this would keep the soles/irons from moving around when drawers are opened/closed and/or when the chest is moved.
Also, how much expansion have you considered for future soles/irons?
Looking forward to my JMP upgrade kit…
Cheers,
Wayne
John,
I’ve been thinking about making a HP-6 chest or wall cabinet for years. A Gerstner case might be a nice way to store everything. I would vote to skip the boxes, but it would be nice to have fitted drawers for all the soles, hones and fences. I’m not sure how feasible it would be to make it hold multiple bodies and fences, I own 6 bodies and three sets of fences, and it would be nice to store all of them in one place. Another feature that might be handy; would be a cradle in the top that would hold the plane to screw the soles on. I would also want the ability to store a fully rigged and set up plane, there’s nothing worse in a tool case design then making the tool only fit if is broken down.
Just some thoughts, Rutager
John – great idea on the Gerstner collaboration. I don’t think storing the boxes is needed. And I personally would go for a smaller case that held the profiles and planes without the foam – if the drawers are properly sized to separate them, not sure that you would need the foam as well. As to how to handle the expansion of more tools, just add another row of drawers that could stack and potentially latch to the top / bottom.
Excited to get the JMP upgrade!
neil
John,
As regards the storage of the boxes, I generally only hang onto them if they have a good way (shaped foam, etc.) to hold the tool. If the foam can simply be used, then the box is gone.
Probably not the best plan for future resale, but like George Carlin once said, “You can’t have it all, where would you put it?”
John,
Still chasing bad guys, but today I’m enjoying Veteran’s Day at home while nursing beer(s). I must say that I like the idea of a 2 week work retreat; though I don’t think the Navy would buy off on it, no matter how well I pitched it.
Dave
John,
So can we see a picture of the doodad that you created while “chained” to the tablesaw?
Thanks, Rutager
@Rutager;
Gave it away. BUT–I am going to take the idea to the next level and when done I will post a pic. When? Don’t ask, don’t tell.
That said, take a bunch of 3/8″ square stock and cut it up into 3″ – 4″ lengths and start assembling them randomly with cross laps. You have to number the joints because at some point you have to disassemble to make more cuts. After about 20 pieces it starts to take on a life of its own–meaning: you have lost track of time.
Have fun!
–John
John,
I tried to do it how you did, but they kicked me out of my local woodworking store! Maybe I could just try it at home.
-Rutager
Back to the case…I have been “doodling” around with this one for a while. I’ve kind of been jotting down some concepts for it, but it will be about 10 years down the road when I would actually make the darn thing. I also like the idea of the chest. It was fun watching the video! For me, the things I’m working around in my mind:
1.) An organized top drawer for 4 plane bodies + all accessories like depth stop, wooden rails, etc.
2.) An organized second drawer for honing equipment including honing profiles, the honing guide, Set up guage, and diamond paste.
3.) An organized set of drawers with (preferably a set of four soles / tray) as many profiles come in fours All drawers would have a single foam cut out to store: Soles, Irons (in a tube which could also keep a spare iron) Hex key, and (now for the kicker) a small brass pill box for each set to hold machine screws). I think a “miscellaneous” drawer would also make sense. I’m still waiting on John to send me some of those free inserts for the wooden rails so I can make some custom angles. The drawer would work perfectly to store these (perhaps an uncut foam insert for this drawer). I like Rutager’s idea of being able to store a set up plane also, but I’m not sure I would use this feature. I generally set up one or two planes, leave them on my bench until I’m done with the project, then break them down, clean them, and store them for the next project. In my mind, this chest would be specifically reserved for HP-6 storage and should be custom built for the purpose. It would take the HP-6 to a new level of collectable value as well as create an absolutely awesome plane. The only down side I can think of is the potential of limiting the number of profiles John could make without exceeding the storage capacity….I guess it would need to be a BIG chest!
DJ
Excellent idea! I have a big box where I keep all the HP6v2 stuff. I keep the stuff in the original boxes mostly because they stack nicely in the bigger box, but an organized toolbox made for them will get them out of the box for sure.
I also agree the hones and paste should make it in a drawer somewhere and love the idea of the cradle on the top to facilitate screwing on older profiles.
Speaking of the older profiles, is it possible to make a thin adapter for older profiles to take advantage of the quick-change of the v2? I’m thinking of 1/8″ brass plate with screw holes so you’d attach whichever older profile to the plate. The back of the plate has the socket for attaching to the v2 base. I realize the thickness of that plate will limit the ultimate projection of the blade, but when I tinkered with the plane thinking of this idea, I don’t think it would be all that bad. Sell them in 4-packs 🙂
Definitely looking forward to 2011 (well, assuming the box and profiles will ship in 2011 🙂
wahoo… JMPv2 soon to arrive!
Since I don’t have an HP-6 I probably shouldn’t have an opinion about the storage box. But I do. While I like the Gerstner boxes, I find that their aesthetic is more akin to the old rosewood and brass Bridge City tools than the new anodized aluminum and stainless steel Bridge City tools. So how ’bout a cool aluminum or stainless steel storage box for the HP-6 and accessories? Something that says “here’s where I keep my deeply cool, modern and functional Bridge City HP-6 plane(s), blades, honing guides and fences”! You could anodize the aluminum to match the HP-6, or one of the other Bridge City tool colors (CS-2 anyone?). A woodworker who has Bridge City tools should be able to make their own Gerstner-style box. But a cool aluminum box would be a bit more of a challenge…
– Peter
And pursuing that thought further, how ’bout a box with drawers milled from an aluminum blank – like the case for the MacBooks? Can you picture drawers made like that to store your blades sliding in and out of an aluminum case? Coolola!
– Peter
Peter,
1-800-253-3332, ask for Natasha, you’ll have a HP-6 to go with your opinion! If moneys tight, just tell her to put it on Fred’s tab, that’s what I do.
-Rutager
Bold plan, Rutager. Natasha? Do you have Fred’s card on file?
– Peter
The case should be modular, anodized aluminum and brass, with locking dovetail joints.
Now we’re talking!
I do like the “expandable by stacking” concept. I’m just looking out for John here…..I NEVER want him to stop making new HP-6 profiles. Sets of four / stack lets you do: 4 diameters; 2 sizes right and left for Ogee; 4 separate designs; etc…I’m still kind of stuck on the wooden box though – I guess I just like wood…BUT if Fred is buying, maybe I could change my mind..
How about a wooden box with Black Chroome highlights?? I could go for that! I also wanted to say that Rutager’s Idea of a cradle for set up is a NEAT idea.
Maybe not directly related to this entry. Can the kerfmaker & tenonmaker be used on a hand saw with mitre box? Reason I ask-I don’t have the ideal crosscut setup-I don’t have a decent table saw, I use a Triton Workcentre 2000 which is a constructor’s type table that takes a portable circular saw. If not, where else can I use my kerfmaker?
Paul;
We have tested and used the KM-1 Kerfmaker successfully with handsaws and our original Jointmaker (this is the device that clamps onto your stock and becomes a saw guide). That said, you can use the KM-1 with just about any tool that creates a consistent kerf.
I don’t see any reason why it will not work on a miter box–please report back!
–John
John,
Have you come to any conclusions re: the future chest? Inquiring minds want to ………..
We are still working on the chest!
John
John,
After buying more profiles, I’ve changed my mind about the boxes. It’s nice to keep the box to be able to refer to the end to see what the profile is. My poor old mind doesn’t need to pay as much attention, nor do I have to try to interpret what I’m looking at. Best to keep the boxes……..
I agree that quickly identifying the profiles, both for use and storage is important, but the boxes aren’t the only way to accomplish this…we are working on it!
-John